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Simple DIY PCB with a 3D Printer



Convert your 3D Printer into a light duty CNC mill! Here I show engraving, drilling and cutting single sided copper clad board to make a PCB with a Dremel style rotary tool attached to my HyperCube 3D Printer.

Watch my next PCB video here:

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A very special thank you to Patrons:

Zak Gurney Chalmers
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Download the HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC from Thingiverse:

0.8 – 3mm End Mill 10 pack:

0.6mm End Mill:

0.3mm V-shape Engraving Bits PCB:

One Side Copper Clad PCB board:

Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood:

Amazon 3D Printers and Parts:

Music: Future Funk by Joakim Karud

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  1. "hello everyone, now that i have a [cnc mill]" kthxbye that's literally how everyone makes PCBs when they don't wanna splash around with acid, there i thought you'd show how to print conductive filament or something, you know, like the title claims. -_-

  2. Ratbites (the small bridges holding the PCB in place) are convenient; but a word of warning about them: PCB's has a tendency to delaminate near them and put mechanical stress on the components. It's not a problem here; but if you use SMD components near the rat bite it may cause trouble.

    I experienced this problem first-hand for one of our designs. I had pointed this problem out to a manufacturer; but they assured me they had this under control. Half a year later we received defective units back – all with the same symptom. Diagnosing the boards I found they all had a capacitor with a DC resistance of a few kilo-ohms. By casting the boards in resin, grinding them down and inspecting under microscope we learned the capacitors had cracks that originated from the rat-bite.

  3. Couldn't you print a collar of some sort, perhaps with a bearing that goes on the Dremel, could be adjustable with grub screws etc, keep the chuck in the same place

  4. Не много ли текстолита снял? Надо настраивать так, что бы снимать только медь и по минимуму текстолита.
    Да и фрезеровать надо край текстолита , а не середину. Экономить материал надо.

  5. Only thing I really don't like about this is the idea of all that dust a-flying (and I suppose to a lesser extent, mechanical wear and tear). Which is worse; acid fumes or G10 dust, right? Even so, I really do like this, and I should consider building one just for in general CNC cutting/milling/engraving. It's brilliant. Thanks for the video!!

  6. very funny to cut the little board out of the middle of the big board…
    You did not mention which tools you used for the PCB and toolpath design?

  7. Hello
    Excellent video. Ive just got an Anet A8 3d printer, and having doing countless etchings, i want to do this way.
    Do you have a tutorial of converting the parts. Coincidentally, ive just had in today a replacement extruder complete, so this would be the time to convert.
    Thanks
    R

  8. at 08;58 the holes drilled after the router clears – might make no difference to do it the other way around holes before routing – tearing of the copper clad

  9. impressive. i didnt think that the belt driven 3d printer was accurate enough to do something like this. ive just bought a dedicated milling machine which uses lead screws on all axis and this gives great accuracy. nice to see how it turns out on this system though.

  10. Hello, I am trying to install Flatcam. But do not have any experience with Python, and little experience with Linux. The tutorials in "Flatcam" site, are quite advanced, and I cannot follow the process. Do you have any video on installing Flatcam? would be very much appreciated. Regards

  11. For everybody who whants to use drilling/milling for printing PCBs: DON'T! It does not work! It is not that easy as shown. The Author misses telling you how many trials it took. He neglects the work you have to put in to callibrate everything and he fails ot show the limitations of this method (you cant place anything smaller than 3~4mm on the board)
    Just use Acid. Which is much more healthy. Yeah, he also forgets to tell us how bad copper and carbon dust is!

  12. Love your channel – You do not use top end gear and the way you modify your printer with all the gear (drill, laser, 3d printer head, dremel, etc) is just amazing. Really shows what can be done.
    Cheers
    Jim

  13. I got the same flexible shaft, and it doesn't have the Z axis problem! It has no play at all… I didn't buy any V bit because of that, but now that I see it doesn't have the issue I ordered a couple.

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